Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Enjoying English tea and freshly made scones at Raven Seat Farm was a delight of the entire week. I remember reading James Herriott's books and couldn't believe I was in the place he described so well. 

As dawn with her rosy fingers rose in the sky, we stayed snug in beds at our three separate B&B's. There is no air conditioning so we are thankful for the cold night temperatures and down comforters. What we have to fight through is the noise from cars driving very fast through town all night not to mention the singing revelers that congregate outside when the pubs close. I've been sleeping with my Ipod to block the noise.  After our typical breakfast of cereal, fresh fruit, yogurt, scrambled eggs and bacon (which looks like ham), we gathered at the Tourist Information Center and set off at 9 a.m.

Crossing Frank's Bridge, we took our last glances of Kirby Stephen and headed up a vertical asphalt path which lasted for the first two or three miles. We were then on much more familiar footing--soft fields, trenches, bogs, and stones. The weather gods once again looked upon us with favor and we had cool temperatures and brilliant sunshine all day.

We made it to the crest of a peak where Nine Standards Riggs were built about 200 years ago. There are a few theories about why the nine huge cairns were built: some say it was a threatening form of intimidation to neighbors, other say the craftsmen guilds had a contest to see who could build the highest tower and others say they were built to draw tourism to the area. (Of course, a few have floated the idea they were built by aliens.) See photos.

Descending we found ourselves in an entirely unique ecosystem. Treacherous bogs threatened to eat our boots and walking sticks. Our leaders had given us ample warning about watching every step because it was possible to sink up to your waist and lose your boots in the muck. Of course, I take these things very seriously so ended up one of the last in line as we picked our way across the fields. One sure test of the danger was the fact there were no sheep in this area.

We all made it through unscathed except our tour leader Aurora, who stepped in a hole and injured her ankle. She braved her way another mile or so until we stopped for lunch when she had her foot taped and took ibuprophen to ward off swelling.

We were all a bit down in the mouth until we arrived at Raven Seat, a farm where the wife and mother of five children, serves fresh scones and cream tea to Coast to Coast travelers. If you have ever read James Harriott's books about his life as a veterinarian in the Yorkshire Dales, then you will appreciate that the setting for our al fresco tea time was straight out of his accounts of the stone farm houses and barns and out of the way locations. The tea and scones were the best by far any of us had ever tasted so our spirits were revived. Also Aurora accepted a ride to our next lodging by one of the workmen which was a great relief to all of us since she was obviously in pain.

Hurston, our trek guide, mislaid his GPS with our pre-programed directions while consulting a map and had to leave our leader- in- training in charge while he went back a couple of miles to retrieve it.

Thankfully we all arrived safe and sound in Keld (a bulge in the road with four buildings). The inn keeper/bartender/owner is delightful with a wicked sense of humor. He immediately made us feel at home. One couple stayed at a sister B & B across the street which is oddly named Butt House.

Another amazing sight (unfortunately I had left my camera in my room) was a rainbow in the clouds that appeared over our lodge. Hurston said he'd never seen one outside of New Zealand. It was a first for me and nearly brought tears to my eyes. I'll post a picture later if someone will share and let me download one of theirs.

Celebrating reaching the midway point. Behind me are two of the nine cairns known as Nine Standards Riggs.

Today was a major milestone. We passed the half way point of our journey at Nine Standards Riggs, left the Lake District and Cumbria and arrived in Yorkshire. We will learn tomorrow how the British have been able to establish the Yorkshire Dales National Forest around privately owned farm land preserving the history and architecture that are unique to this part of the country.

Walking through treacherous blogs for miles slowed us down today.