The Agony and The Ecstasy

After a day of rest in Glenridding, thirteen out of our group of fifteen (including our two leaders) tackled the Roman Road on the fell crest above Glenridding and Ullswater Lake. The weather forecast posted at our hotel warned us of cold weather and high winds but predicted sun for the afternoon. All of us came prepared for the worst and it's a good thing because the worst is what we received.
A taxi drove us to the trailhead where we began our ascent over steep rocks and sheep pasture land. Our first stop was at a rock circle that has been in existence from the first recorded history or the area. No one knows why the prehistoric circle was built. Could it be a place of meeting? worship? aliens?

As we continued our trek trying to avoid the bogs, we added shirts, windpants, jackets, windbreakers, wool hats, and gloves, lightening our packs and keeping us warm against temperatures in the 50s and constant winds of between 40 and 50 miles per hours with a few gusts of 60+. We stopped for lunch on the lee side of a slate stone pasture wall which kept out most of the wind but we ate in mostly silence--a first for our chatty group of comrades.

During lunch the clouds thickened and when we restarted our walk, the sleet began. Fortunately, it didn't last very long.

What could be worse than this? There was a cross country bicycle race going on so the entire time we were met by bicycle racers coming down the mountain trying to cross the washouts, bogs, ruts and rocks and stay upright on two wheels. Although they had it much worse, the Brits are a hardy lot and we were always greeted with smiles and cheerful "hullos."

As we started down the mountain,  we were able to remove some layers, but then the beck fording began with boots wedged against slick, wet rocks and a couple of scrambles as we leaned close to the mountain to avoid tipping over the edge. Eventually the sun came out cheering our flagging spirits.

Hurston, our hike leader, said this is the first time the weather has been good enough and the hikers have been strong enough to take this very challenging yet scenic way. We so impressed him with our fortitude and fell hiking abilities he bought each of us a beer when we arrived (13.5 miles and nearly 8 hours later) in Paterdale. His wife is our tour leader and she confirmed that he never buys beer for a group so we felt very special indeed!

Today was the easiest day so far. A bus picked us up in Glenridding and drove us about 14 miles to a trail head in the Yorkshire Dales. If you have read James Herriott's books about his veterinary practice, you have a sense of the area. We are still technically in the Lake District but by the end of today's short 8 mile hike over an old train trestle and viaduct and through sheep, cow and horse pastures, we could see on the hill crest Nine Standard Rigg, large cairns dating back to  at least the 17th century that mark the official end of the Lake District and the beginning of Yorshire Dales National Park.

We walked through the town of Kirkby Stephen (pronounced Kirby Stephen) to our B & B's. Below are some photos of the gardens in front of the houses in the neighborhood. They are exquisite and a lovely way to end a perfectly warm, sunny, easy stroll.